The Poison Spyder brand is a very important aspect of what they do. They cut their logo into most of their products for several reasons: so they are quickly and easily identified as one of their products; so they are NOT erroneously identified as someone else's product; as a mark of quality, craftsmanship and style; and because they like the way it looks, as do most of their customers. Of course, they do also benefit from the extra exposure of having their spyder logo displayed on thousands of Jeeps.
I have a personal objection to displaying logos on my Jeep, can I get your product without it?
For most of their products which normally come with their logo cut-out, they do not offer an option to delete it. They understand that for a very few customers this might be a deal breaker, just like any other feature or lack of features that someone shopping for Jeep parts might find important. They are very grateful that the vast majority of customers not only like the Spyder, but prefer that it be there — some are even disappointed that a few of their products don't have it. In the end, the Spyder logo is just another feature of the product that must be weighed when making a decision to purchase a product.
You make some of your products in both steel and aluminum. Which should I get?
It depends on how you use your Jeep, what kind of wheeling you do, and which product you're considering. For armor used on Jeeps that get wheeled hard in extreme rock terrain, Poison Spyder Customs prefer steel because it is simply more durable, less susceptible to bending or gouging, and will distribute impact loads over wider areas better. But the trade-off is that steel is of course heavier. There are some who prefer a lighter rig even in hard core terrain, opting to use aluminum but accepting the greater risk of damage in order to gain the performance of a lighter rig. For these folks, if their driving style is more finessed and patient, aluminum might be the better choice. For vehicles being used primarily on the street, and light trail duty, the aluminum products might be the better choice solely for the weight savings.
Are the aluminum products really that weak?
Of course not, they are still very robust. Most of the aluminum products they make are made of 3/16" thick 6061 aluminum, which is some pretty tough stuff and should hold up well to some fairly tough situations. But the fact remains aluminum is simply not as strong as steel of the same dimensions. And because everyone has a different driving style, from patience and finesse to treating the rig like a wrecking ball, they have to be careful in what they claim the aluminum parts will stand up to. Indeed, just about any product can be destroyed by poor driving, even the steel products. They just want to make sure customers who purchase aluminum armor products do not have unrealistic expectations about how much abuse they can take.
Won't your Hood Louver allow water to get into my engine compartment?
This is a very common question that they get asked all the time. The simple answer is yes, some water can trickle down through the louvers during wet weather, but this hasn't caused any significant problems for the hundreds of people who have installed their Hood Louvers. It is important to remember that the engine bay is not a sealed compartment—it is common and expected that water can splash up into there even with a stock, uncut hood. That's why all of the engine components and electrical connections under the hood are weatherproofed from the factory. Many Jeep owners routinely pop the hood and hose down the engine compartment anyhow, to clean off dust and mud after wheeling trips, with no ill effects. Even if you live in an area with wet weather, you can install the Poison Spyder Hood Louver with confidence.
Do you do installations?
They do not normally perform routine installations, as they are not set up as an install shop.
Can I see your installation instructions prior to purchase?
Yes, most of them are available directly on the product page.
Is there an easier way to install nut-serts?
The free nut-sert "tool" they include with each product that requires nut-serts for installation, is admittedly frustrating to use. That's why they recommend purchasing, renting or borrowing a professional nut-sert install tool. They recommend the Marson Giant Thread Setter (make sure to purchase the correct size mandrel and nose piece). A tool like this will make your installation a LOT easier. They include the free tool for those who would rather trade a little more work and frustration for a lower installation cost. For tips on using the free nut-sert tool, make sure to read through the Nut-Sert Installation Tool Instructions.
I keep stripping the small screws, what am I doing wrong?
Some of their products (such as their Hood Louvers) are installed using small, stainless steel button head cap screws. They've heard a few complaints from customers who have stripped out either the threads or the internal hex socket on these. Here are a few thoughts to keep in mind when using them. First, the alloy used in stainless steel fasteners is not as hard as a Grade 8 bolt, so more care must be taken when installing them. Always use anti-sieze compound on the threads, especially when installing products that require pre-installation, removal, then final installation, such as with the Hood Louver kit. The lock nuts used in these kits are zinc plated steel and of a harder alloy than the stainless steel cap screws, so the threads can gall more easily if they are cross-threaded or over-tightened. Also when using the hex key (Allen wrench), make sure the hex key is fully seated into the socket in the head of the screw, and not tilted at an angle. ALWAYS use flat-ended hex keys with stainless steel fasters, never use ball-end hex keys with them. Also, try holding the head of the screw stationary with the hex key, while turning the nut with the wrench. This will make it easier to keep the tool straight and apply constant pressure while tightening. Finally, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
I've damaged a couple of the fasteners during install, how can I get some replacements?
Most of their fasteners can be more quickly and easily sourced locally, from your nearby hardware store, industrial hardware shop, steel supply or Fastenal dealer.