Inside the oil separator there is a filter. The filtered side of the can should always go to the PCV valve or “dirty” connection. The filter is what turns the oil vapor into liquid form to be collected in the basin of the unit. You want this to happen as it is entering the can. The open port will run to your intake.
In most cases you only need an oil separator on the PCV side (dirty side) of the engine. This is the side that is under vacuum/suction most of the time while the vehicle is running and driving. The clean side typically is only used for venting when the PCV valve is closed which is under moderate to high acceleration.
Some turbo vehicles can see oil in the clean side, such as Ecoboost F-150’s when they are exposed to frequent towing conditions.
On non-turbo applications anything short of road course racing you typically will not see a drop of collection out of the clean side.
For most Ford applications there is a grey or green tab, you press in this larger tab. It is a button; it will release the fitting and you pull up on the fitting with the button pressed. DO NOT REMOVE THE CLIPS FROM THE FITTING! YOU WILL BREAK THEM!!
For GMC/Chevy applications there is a single button release. This release and the location of some of these fittings can be tricky. You must press the bottom squarely and pull the fitting straight off. Many people make the mistake of pressing the button too hard and it flexes the release. Take your time and it will release. The 5.3L intake fittings are the toughest due to their location.
Most applications average about an ounce of oil every thousand miles. However, there are many factors in collection rate as every single engine is different. Factors such as driving style, climate, engine condition, oil level all vary and effect collection rate.
People in cold climates will have to check their oil separator more often in the winter months due to condensation build up occurring in the oil separator itself. In these months, the air entering the can is significantly hotter than the ambient air temp. This results in condensation build up (think hot shower in a cold bathroom).
500-1000 miles of driving to get an idea of how often it needs to be serviced. The can holds 3 ounces without the optional extension.
Every 15K+ Miles you will want to thoroughly clean the oil separator.
The specs on the screws are M4 x .7 x 10mm, they can be found at just about any hardware store.
Sometimes when the oil separator is over tightened it can be tough to remove; also some oil separators are much more accessible once installed than others.
If you are having trouble removing the oil separator reservoir, try removing it from the bracket or even vehicle to get a better grip on it. For units that are really tough, JTL performance recommends a rubber oil filter strap wrench. You can use this in combination with a rag and typically remove them without damage.
When reinstalling the can bottom, treat it like an oil filter. Screw the can to the bottom of the O-ring. Give it another ¾ to 1 full turn. No more, no less.
No! Dispose of this nasty oil that is mixed with fuel, water and everything else where you would dispose of your oil change oil. Many auto parts stores will take your old oil for free of charge.
If you read the fine print on any warranty contract you will find a lot of reasons your warranty can become void; installing aftermarket parts can be one of them.
However, per the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act proof would have to be provided that the after-market part caused the failure.
If you need further clarification, contact your vehicles service department. Some are easier to deal with than others.
Oiled filters are cleanable, rechargeable and the most popular choice. The red and blue filters are the same, but just a different color oil.
Dry filters are popular with people who are living in dust or sandy environments. The life of the dry filter can be extended by removing it and using compressed air, blowing it from the inside out. Be sure to not get too close with the direct air pressure or you’ll risk damaging the filter. Many customers add a JLT Performance Pre-filter to provide long-life and even simpler cleanup with just a quick vacuuming of the cover.
Performance of both filters are within 1% of one another, so it just boils down to your personal preference.
On vehicles that use MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors, the computer (PCM/ECU) is calibrated to read the sensor in a specific sized housing. When you install the JLT Intake which has a larger than stock housing, the computer must be recalibrated (tuned) to accurately calculate the air flow and achieve a target air/fuel ratio. Engine damage can occur if the vehicle is not tuned for the modifications.
The specs on the screws are M4 x .7 x 10mm, they can be found at just about any hardware store.
No, our filters are ready to install brand new out of the box.
For dry filters all you can do is blow them out with compressed air from the inside out, they should be replaced every 20-30k miles depending on driving conditions.
If you read the fine print on any warranty contract you will find a lot of reasons your warranty can become void; installing aftermarket parts can be one of them.
However, per the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act proof would have to be provided that the after-market part caused the failure.
If you need further clarification, contact your vehicles service department. Some are easier to deal with than others.