The most common reason is the hub bore diameter is wrong, because the hub manufacturer did not maintain quality control during production. Other possible reasons are listed below. The spindle may be too long, which could cause the nut or cotter pin on the end of the spindle to push against the Bearing Buddy® piston (when grease level is low), eventually forcing it out of the hub. Excessive removal and reinstallation of a Bearing Buddy® can wear down the Bearing Buddy® shoulder (the part that fits into the hub), which decreases the interference fit between the Bearing Buddy® shoulder and the hub bore. An out-of-balance tire and incorrect bearing torque can cause excessive "wheel play" or wobbling, which can cause a Bearing Buddy® to work its way out of the hub. Installing the wrong size Bearing Buddy® for the hub bore diameter.
Bearing Buddy® don't recommend inspecting your bearings more frequently than once every 5 years, provided you properly maintain the grease level in the hubs, and your bearings and seals are in new condition when you install genuine Bearing Buddy®. The Bearing Buddy® system maintains a constant pressure of 3 psi on the grease inside the hub. Since the hub is always full of grease (with proper maintenance) there is no need to repack your bearings. Some times Bearing Buddy® units were removed for the first time after 10 to 15 years of use, and the bearings still looked like new.
Measure the inside diameter of the hub or the outside diameter of the dust cap shoulder (the part that fits into the hub) with a caliper or micrometer.
Lay a block of wood against the side of the Bearing Buddy® and strike the wood with a hammer. Place the wood on the opposite side and hit again. Continue this procedure until you ''walk'' the Bearing Buddy® out of the hub. Don't disassemble the Bearing Buddy® to attempt to remove it.
Grease can be added to the hub through an easily accessible grease fitting located in the center of the Bearing Buddy® piston. Lubricant level can be checked by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. If the piston won't rock or move, add grease until piston moves outward about 1/8". When adding grease, always use a hand grease gun. An automatic grease gun will destroy the hub's inner seal.
Fill the hubs completely with a high quality, multipurpose No. 2 grade lubricant (e.g., the type used for automotive suspensions). Don't use heavy, fibrous greases; don't mix grease types.
The Bearing Buddy® Bra is a vinyl cover that fits over the Bearing Buddy® to contain excess grease and keep it off tires and wheels. Bearing Buddy® Bras are available in black.
Yes, Bearing Buddy Inc. manufactures four models of Genuine Bearing Buddy® that will allow you to convert from oil bath to a grease system. Please check threaded models: 1980T-SS, 2080T-SS and 2441T-SS and 2047T-SS.
The company began in Saugus, California in 1963 under the name of Aquappliances, Inc. The original owners were Bill Kampf and Denny Law. While working for Marquardt, a defense contractor in the Los Angeles area, Denny traveled between Los Angeles and Las Vegas many times. While on these trips, Denny discovered that he frequently saw boat trailers broken down on the side of the road with bearing failure. Denny and Bill soon realized there was a need for a bearing protector for boat trailers and as a result Bearing Buddy® was created. It took four years of hard work and sacrifice to get the product into the marketplace and build sales to the point where the company could survive. At one particularly difficult time in the early going, Bill and Denny decided to draw straws with the loser having to keep the company. But before this could happen, they received their first large order and were finally on their way.